The 14 articles of cyclekarting - Rev. 10-2022. As agreed upon by: Mike Stevenson (co-creator of the cyclekart), Doug Varey (Gittreville), Justin Tremain (Gittreville), Mike Thorpe (Tieton), Dennis Thomas (The Godfather), Steve Vinson (Arizona Cyclekart Club), Mark Parnell (Renegade Cyclekart Parts Distributor, Kelly Wood (Cyclekarts North America)...and a mess of other folks that actually built them and believe in the hobby... Deal with it. Keep in mind... they're just guidelines. The Hard rules: the Engine, Wheels, build it yourself, width around 39" max outer edge to outer edge of wheel, and appear to resemble your inspiration car or car from the period. Worth mentioning: The builders guidelines found on the Gittreville site refer to THEM and their thing and their events among themselves. They do not govern cyclekarts. How we know this: They told us themselves. What you SHOULD see this as, is an artistic project. Cyclekarts are ART on wheels you can drive. Nothing more, nothing less. You should NOT see this as a race you're trying to win. They're smaller versions of vintage cars, following in similar footsteps of the original, ill-fated "cycle car," a motorcycle powered car from the early 1900's.... and things that appear in the VSCC. (vintage sports car club) So.. Tiny car, skinny spoked wheels, little weird lawnmower engine, shooting to make it look like a favorite vintage ride that's sketchy to drive... Check. Here it is... 1. Search for a famous or unique vintage car that just does it for you. This is from the period of when automobiles first appeared, to around... the last time a production car or race car, used relatively SKINNY and WIRE SPOKED WHEELS. This, also includes ALL "specials" that appear in places such as the VSCC. This, is called your inspiration car. The original idea was early 1900's to a maximum of Pre-WWII, but some from beyond the original period have enjoyed success. Still, try to keep it period correct ok? With me so far? If the car had wire spoked skinny wheels, you can use this as your inspiration. 2. Find, some 17" motorcycle wheels. The common forumula suggested Honda Trail 90 type wheels, although any 17" spoked wheels will work. Max width of rim, 1.60. Max tire size 17 x 2.75 typically. Still with us? 17" motorcycle wheels, spoked. Not go kart wheels, not trailer wheels, not tractor wheels, not plastic jogging stroller wheels, not car wheels, not ATV wheels... not whatever you feel like using wheels. 17" spoked motorcycle wheels. (yes there are 16's and 18's used on some cars. The goal: Make it work with what you're building. Make it LOOK right. Get it?) 3. Acquire an engine. The original formula used the basic Honda GX200 or clone engine. Every pressure washer in these United States has one. Harbor Freight will sell you one for about 120 bucks. It's called a Predator. In changing times, and in short... any 4 cycle, single cylinder, 226 CC or less Gas engine will be fine. The brand, is up to you. Why "THIS" motor? It's so the gentlemanly competition is equal. Get it? MANY builders will of course go Stage I or II looking for that extra speed... but it won't matter because a box stock car, does the same thing. Don't waste your bucks yet, see what it does first. You may be surprised. (many however do appear to modify their engines well beyond that specs... and we know it.) In some cars that were light, the GX160 has been used to offset the differences in speed and make them competitive. Note: Massive engine modifications (e.g. High performance Cranks, cams, super high end carbs, porting, polishing, flywheels, etc.) will get you frowned right out of the Cyclekart realm and only means you don't understand the hobby... at all. 4. Drivetrain: Usually it's 1" axle in the rear with torque converter (TAV), and one or both rear wheels driving. Then maybe 5/8" or 3/4" spindles up front. You figure it out. Doesn't have to be that, you just have to move "your" butt around and not die in the process. Scrounge, or buy, the basic go kart bits such as gearing, axles, etc... that make your spinny parts go. Location of engine does not matter, be creative. 5. Spend, less than around 2500 bucks on it. The reason for this is to eliminate spending wars. Scavenging and/or repurposing items is highly encouraged. This is the original idea here. The more money involved, the worse it gets possibly sending this sport spiraling out of control and suffering the same fate as all other obnoxiously expensive motorsports. Of course you're going to buy a few things. The original limit was 1700 bucks... then somehow crept slowly upwards... and people still spent more... and more. It's not about money. Do we care? Not really. People will do what they want anyway. 6. Performance is secondary... tertiary actually. If you've come into this thinking you're going to go faster than anyone, win at all costs... hey, we'll just not invite you to any event. We know who you are anyway. Cyclekarters don't care who wins, there aren't any trophies, and speed is "the" last thing you need. Cyclekarts are dangerous. Read that again. Cyclekarts, are Dangerous. If this possibility of getting hurt doesn't appeal to you, it might not be the best adventure to take at this juncture in your career. 7. Build the rest of your car, and the body, from whatever your little heart desires. Sure, there's original "suggestions" but it isn't the law. You decide. What can you do that is within your skill set? The usual framing consists of 1" x 3" (1/16th wall) steel, but you can use what you want. For instance, if the car had a wood frame, one might consider using hardwood. NOTE: Cheating is highly frowned upon here. (e.g. Using the entire functional front end of some other production vehicle and welding it to some frame.) 8. Suspension: Most cyclekarts have a front suspension. It should mimmick that which the inspiration car had. Rear suspension, most don't have it usually... but some do. Note: Coil-Over shocks should not be part of this... ever. Nothing ruins a 100 yr old caricature like modern things. 9. NO front brakes. Reason: Steering usually goes out the window and it's a bad idea. As for rear brakes... gosh... please have something. 10. Start... START at a 66" wheelbase and adjust accordingly to match the inspiration car. If your car was a longer car, make it longer. Make it LOOK RIGHT. Width: Around 39" MAX. Cyclekart width is measured outside of wheel, to outside of wheel. Why so Narrow? Because the wider it gets, the faster you think you can go... and that's more dangerous. These are not race cars. If you think they are, you're in this for the wrong reason. 11. Make it look good. This is the end-all, be-all, original rule in all of cyclekarting. You're trying to make a caricature of your inspiration car. You're supposed to try. If you did, it'll show through and we'll all see it. If you didn't, well.. we'll see that too. With some luck, when done you should be able to take a picture of your inspiration car, put it next to your car... and have a complete stranger say "Hey, that looks like... that." (A SANE stranger that is) 12. Build it yourself. Proper respect for the sport does mean you build your own. 13. Have Fun. 14. Anyone giving you advice who hasn't BUILT a cyclekart, is probably wrong. These items cover the general idea across of all of American Cyclekarting, Canada, New Zealand, and perhaps some others although the engines might vary. Please remember, the Cyclekart started in America. We, (That's Mike Stevenson and the real cyclekarters define what it is. If others want to go and make other things (even if similar) that's fine, but unless they're following the Stevenson route, or this one... as we agreed to... you probably shouldn't call it a cyclekart. That's all there is, there are no more rules or laws. For those that bought theirs used... of course some will trade hands. It's the nature of the sport as it evolves, and so long as you're a decent human being, we're fine with ya. As for the kits... (e.g. VKC karts and Renegade kits, few exist) well, what can you make it look like? Be creative ok? The VKC car is originally a COPY OF A CYCLEKART anyway, so they qualify as a Cyclekart. And finally, about other places building what they call Cyclekarts... well, they can do what they want of course but if they're gonna call them CycleKarts... we'd surely hope they don't all look alike. Remember, they're supposed to be unique. It's not about speed, it's about the spirit. Please remember this. Finally, the "actual classes" that exist among most of us. 1. Edwardian. Cars are pre WWI. Can have 17 or 18" wheels, also driver must sit 4" above the rear axle. If, it was a lower car however, then make it look appropriate to the car. 2. Pre-war. 17" wheels. Cars are after World War 1, up to WWII. 3. Post-war. 17" wheels. Cars are after World war 2. 4. Lakester / Hotrod. Taken from Gittreville... here's where the lake racer / hot rod comes in. Do steer clear of things from the 50's. It's not the 1950's. 5. Spirit. Usually 17" wheels. This is more or less, the custom class. A simple class where the car really didn't have any actual inspiration yet holds sufficient inspiration and done so well everyone said "yes, that fits the spirit." This is the club. This is what we do. If you're here to do something else or suggest we do things differently or get mad that we don't accept you for going the wrong direction... this hobby may not be for you. If you're gonna build something outside of the known cyclekart simple guidelines, of course that's fine but don't call it a cyclekart. This name, is and has been taken for 20+ years. This wobbly wheel has rolled nicely for 20+ years just like it is. It doesn't need to be changed. Thanks for your time.... Something new here though... LOL! The AeroKart Finally: If you're interested in this, go to the originating site first and read: Cyclekarts.com Then: Cyclekarts North America Then: Cyclekart Club Forum